As if there isn’t enough fighting going on around the world, here’s Chile and Peru locked in a hot-headed battle over, of all things, the potato.
According to a story in yesterday’s New York Times, Chile’s agricultural minister recently claimed that “99 percent of the world’s potatoes have some type of genetic link to potatoes from Chile.”
Them are fighting words to Peru, where the potato is a source of national pride.
In response, Peru’s Foreign Minister Jose Antonio Garcma Belaunde has cranked up a series of events organized around the International Year of the Potato, so decreed by the United Nations to promote the potato’s potential role in alleviating hunger in poor countries. Top chefs in Peru are developing new potato dishes. A Catalan artist traveled to Peru to unveil ”conceptual works” inspired by the homely tuber. And Peruvian President Alan Garcia is trying to increase potato cultivation by replacing white bread with potato bread in all schools.
Of course, the hot potato is only part of the tense status quo between the 2 countries. Peru is also mighty ticked off that Chile calls the “pisco sour” its own even though the town of Pisco is in Peru’s grape-growing country. (Personally, having tasted a couple pisco sours while visiting Peru a few years ago, I don’t know why anyone would want to claim the bitter brandy or slimy cocktail as his own.)
But it’s the spud spat that’s news today. And in honor of that, here’s a terrific recipe that takes advantage of both the lowly tater and glorious sweet summer corn.
SWEET CORN AND POTATO VICHYSSOISE
From “The Union Square Cookbook” by Danny Meyer and Michael Romano
Serves 4
5 ears of corn
6 ½ cups water
1 ¼ teaspoons kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper
1 tablespoon butter
¾ teaspoon ground cumin
¼ teaspoon cayenne
1 ½ cups sliced leeks, washed, white and light green parts only
1 ½ cups sliced onions
1 ½ cups diced potatoes
¾ cup sliced celery
1 ¼ cups buttermilk, chilled
1 ½ tablespoons minced chives
Cut the corn kernels from the cobs and reserve. Chop the cobs into 1-inch pieces. Place the cob pieces in a 2-quart saucepan with the water and half the salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer and cook, covered, for 30 minutes. Strain and reserve the corn broth. Discard the cobs.
Melt the butter in the saucepan over medium heat. Add the cumin and cayenne and allow to sizzle for 1 minute, stirring. Stir in the corn kernels, leeks, onions, potatoes and celery. Season with the remaining salt and pepper and cook until the vegetables are wilted, about 7 minutes. Add the corn broth and simmer until the vegetables are tender, about 30 minutes.
While the soup is still hot, pour into a blender and puree until very smooth. It may be necessary to do this in more than one batch. Strain the soup through a fine strainer and chill in a bowl over ice. When chilled, stir in the buttermilk and adjust the seasoning to taste. Serve in chilled soup bowls, sprinkled with chives.
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