I’ve still got much news to share from my idyllic month of eating and drinking in Austria’s wine country and capital city, Vienna.
But a blurb in yesterday’s San Diego Union-Tribune’s about the new menu at El Bizcocho in the Rancho Bernardo Inn left me slapping my forehead so vigorously that I just have to take time today to comment… and solicit your comments.
El Biz, a respected “resort” dining room for more than two decades, has introduced an all-tasting-menu format. The cheapest option is a five-course affair that costs $85. There’s also a seven-course dinner for $105, and, for those who really and truly haven’t looked at a newspaper or TV screen since the market’s nosedive in September, a 12-course extravaganza for $145.
The Web site discreetly notes that “recommended wine selections” to accompany the menus add $75 per person to the tab.
All I can say is “What the…,?” What the…?”
Ok. So the market had a couple “up” days this week. Stocks are still doing a demonic dance on Wall Street. Record numbers of Americans are out of jobs and out of their foreclosed homes. Car sales are plummeting, small businesses are closing.
And El Biz is peddling “acidulated fennel” and “nitro peach dots” at prices that break down, per course, to about 17 bucks for a few slurps of soup?
Mind you, I have nothing against an extravagant dining adventure now and then. I’m as much in favor of a “blow-it-all-out” dining celebration as the next guy.
It’s the timing of El Bizcocho’s move that gets me. And, truth be told, the menu leaves me scratching my head too.
New chef Steven Rojas is clearly infatuated with the molecular gastronomy style of cooking made popular by Ferran Adria of El Bulli in Spain. That means the menu is heavy on espumas and emulsions, froths and gels.
Is it just me? Or, as winter looms and the economy lags, does a bowl of onion soup with a big, cheesey crouton on top sound more appealing than “smoked kampachi with almond foam and Serrano ham water?”
Luckily for San Diego diners, many other establishments are, indeed, “in the loop,” and offering great value on delicious food.
Last night I had a sensational dinner at Viaggio in Jack’s La Jolla and paid about HALF of the final tab. Thanks to coupons in the weekly newspaper, The La Jolla Light, our party got one entrée free with each full-price entrée. Moreover, since Wednesday is “Half Price Bottle Wine” night, we enjoyed a terrific $70 Cab for $35.
Chef Tony DiSalvo’s offerings – a heavenly salad of burrata cheese, fresh figs and basil; butternut squash soup with chestnuts and pancetta; truffled goat cheese panna cotta with arugula; and braised lanb shanks with polenta – are imaginative and sophisticated, yet supremely satisfying examples of comfort food.
Jack’s La Jolla’s Web site also offers a free entrée to those who sign up on the site.
Just a few blocks away, Tapenade also offers superb food at bargain prices with a Bar Menu that includes some of the best ravioli on the planet. The paper-thin dough pockets are plump with creamy mushroom duxelle, sauced with Port wine and drizzled with white truffle oil and a flurry of aged parmesan. It’s
enough to make you forget the economic crisis completely…and it costs eight bucks.
Other winners on the Bar Menu (served every night, only in the bar area) are Alaskan salmon with ratatouille and couscous ($14), New York Steak with salad and impeccable frites ($16) and a lovely vegetable plate ($7).
Other “deals” that I’ve heard about recently include:
*** A three-course dinner with wine pairings for $32.95 at Thee Bungalow. (Sunday-Thursday evenings from Nov 3 – 20.)
*** Half-price on all bottled wines in November at Sbicca, Del Mar.
*** Half-price wine on Sunday and half-price entrees on Monday at South Park Bar & Grill
This exercise has made me hungry for more good deals. Please share your “value” finds with us.
Hi Maureen!
Andy and I took our gift card to a restaurant the other day, only to find out that it had gone out of business. After driving around for a while, I remembered a rather new place close to where I work...Boomerang's Gourmet Burgers on Clairemont Dr. While it is not cheap (around $10 for a burger, 3 mix-ins, and a side), the quality of the beef is excellent, and the sweet potato fries (I ask for mine extra crispy) are terrific.
I'm glad you had a great time in Vienna!
Joan
Posted by: joan frank | November 01, 2008 at 12:02 PM
I agree that Jacks offers terrific value. I highly recommend the Chorizo and Jalapeno pizza on the bottom floor. Served as a manageable portion - with spicy chorizo, dripping cheese, and crispy crust - it is one of the top pizzas in La Jolla, if not San Diego. I suggest pairing it with an icy Stella Artois for a Thursday night treat.
Posted by: igotojacksforthefoodbutistayforthecougs | November 11, 2008 at 12:09 PM
I'm Sorry but you have it all wrong... Its still great food with the freshest ingredients money can buy, and its not El Bulli or even MoTo. If you prefer elaborated food with complexity is not a place for you. Don't go there If you want Steak and potatoes. Have you been in lately? Go Check it out its not a science Lab its Michelin quality food I think, and stop bad mouthing "molecular gastronomy" something you have no clue about.
P.S. What's with the picture of the chef, You must have an issues
Robert H
Posted by: robert | December 13, 2008 at 03:19 AM