We had friends over for dinner the other night and they went home thinking I was a genius.
I have Ethan Stowell, the gastro-maestro of four of Seattle’s most exciting restaurants, to thank for that buffing of my culinary credentials. You see, I flipped through Stowell’s new cookbook, “Ethan Stowell’s New Italian Kitchen” and, at random, picked his Gnocchetti with Pancetta, Chanterelles, and Mint to cook for dinner.
The dish is sensational…robust flavors, tickly textures, alluring aromas…and it’s easy to make.
(The photo is by Geoffrey Smith; reprinted wtih permission from "Ethan Stowell's New Italian Kitchen: Bold Cooking from Seattle's Anchovies & Olives; How to Cook a Wolf; Staple & Fancy Mercantile; and Tavolata" by Ethan Stowell and Leslie Miller. Published by Ten Speed Press, a division of Random House.)
The book is available at Amazon.com for $17.99.
Of particular interest is the type of pasta Stowell calls for. I had never heard of Gnocchetti Sardi, a short durum wheat pasta that’s shaped like the potato dumplings called gnocchi. The shape held tight to the luscious bits of mushroom, pancetta and herbs. I also loved his inclusion of both Italian parsley and fresh mint to punch up the dish’s flavor.
The recipe calls for chanterelle mushroom, but they were $49 a pound at my local Vons. (I see several on-line sites where they can be purchased for $25 a pound.) I subbed very fresh cremini mushrooms and loved the results.
The new book is ideal for home cooks who want to push the envelope. Nothing “ordinary” in here. Instead, creations like Steamed Clams with Guanciale and Sorrel; Panzanella with Crispy Pig’s Ear; and Seared Duck Breast with Sugared Figs and Arugula will ensure that your guests, too, will go home thinking you are a genius.
Check it out at Amazon.com.
GNOCCHETTI WITH PANCETTA, CHANTERELLES, AND MINT
Serves 4
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 pound dried gnocchetti sardi
3/4 pound fresh chanterelle mushrooms
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1/2 pound pancetta, cut into small dice
3 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
Pinch of chile flakes
2 tablespoons fresh mint, chopped
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
Parmigiano-Reggiano, for serving
Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a rolling boil. Add the pasta and cook for about 12 minutes, or 1 minute less than the package directions.
While the pasta is cooking, clean the mushrooms and slice off the tough end of each stem. Quarter large mushrooms and halve the others. Any tiny chanterelles may be left whole. Set aside. Heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the pancetta and sauté until some of the fat renders and the pancetta is golden, about 5 minutes. You don’t want it to become too crisp. Add the mushrooms and sauté for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking. When the mushrooms are golden, add the garlic and cook for 1 minute longer. Add the chile flakes.
When the pasta is ready, drain and add to the mushroom-pancetta mixture, adding a couple of tablespoons of cooking water if the mixture seems dry. Season with salt and pepper. Add the mint and parsley and toss.
Tip into a serving bowl. Drizzle with olive oil. Using a vegetable peeler, shave a few large curls of Parmigiano-Reggiano on top.
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