Bond. Jason Bond. And whether he wants to shake it, stir it, puree or braise it, I want whatever it is he’s cooking.
This affable chef, who’s worked (according to his website) in everything “from slow-smoked BBQ to Relais & Chateaux,” opened his first solo restaurant Bondir, in Cambridge in late 2010. I visited last spring and was in awe of his creativity, precision, and total lack of pretense. Each and every dish was special, extraordinary, really. And yet it was a dining affair without airs. To me, sort of a French Laundry experience without the narcissism. No need to genuflect before the food, to worship the super-chefs. Bond and his staff encourage guests to enjoy their friends and conversation along with the stellar fare.
Located in Cambridge, on the edge of Central Square and a stone’s throw from MIT, Bondir is a pretty little place, sort of an urban farmhouse, with a blazing fire to greet you just inside the door. Extra logs are stacked neatly under antique benches around the room. Well-spaced tables are set simply with a single flower and mismatched plates decorated with flowers and fruits.
The menu changes every day, and has just eight or nine dishes in total. Other than the soup and salad, all courses come in two sizes, allowing a group of, say, four people, to sample just about everything. Luckily I was with friends who know and appreciate good food and wine, and who were willing to share, both bites and opinions.
Our adventure started with silky-smooth spring parsnip soup to which a weensy bouquet of celery and bergamot (a type of bitter orange) added depth of flavor; roasted hazelnuts, crunch. The evening’s salad was an inspired mingling of spice-poached beets, wispy greens, pumpkin seeds, blood orange and a buttermilk vinaigrette that sparred playfully with the spices.
Sweet, pan-seared scallops from Scituate, an waterfront town south of Boston, were paired with burdock root (an earthy cousin of the artichoke) and rutabaga puree, creating a dynamic interplay of textures.
Hand-rolled garganelli pasta was sauced with a delicate sorrel-infused cream, the citrusy tang of the herb brightening the flavors of the Berkshire ham and Georgia peas that dotted the creation. And luscious buttery grits and a pesto made with Vidalia green onions made a fabulous braised chicken from Vermont even better. While I’m not a huge fan of duck breast, a small bite of my friend’s Roasted Mallard Duck with Vidalia onions, Calypso beans and White Flint Corn Cake gave me reason to re-evaluate that mindset.
Bondir’s desserts were no less exciting. I loved the brilliant version of pear tart (a crostata here), a dessert I normally avoid because the odds of it being good are about the same as the Sox making it to the post-season. Bond poaches local pears in red wine until tender, tucks them into flaky pastry and anoints the still life with almond cream and lemon mousseline. (This photo is from FoodieMommy.com.)
But I really, really loved the Tangerine Dream, a fragile genoise cake harmonizing with thyme-scented buttermilk ice cream, vermouth-infused tangerine, and a glossy, golden meringue brulee.
Bondir’s wine list offers delicious flights of fancy, including a Spätburgunder from Germany, a St. Laurent from Austria and an Aglianico from Italy. Wine prices are very gentle, with the majority under $50. There’s also an impressive selection of microbrew beers in bottles.
When I arrived at Bondir, I figured it to be a cozy, casual neighborhood place where I'd drop in often if I lived around the block. I quickly discovered that the very special food and inviting ambiance make it equally suited to celebratory occasions. Or, in the words of the Michelin Man, "worth a special journey."
TOMORROW: BIN 941, VANCOUVER, B.C.
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